January 14, 2024
Agua Verde, BCS, Mexico
While eating out with friends in Loreto, Mark mentioned that he and his wife were headed to the remote beach at Puerto Ague Verde. This would involve 20-25 miles of rough dirt road, but they were going for it, intending to air down their tires for a smoother drive. All three of our rigs have compressors, so airing back up is no issue. Plus, while their wive’s rolled their eyes, all three of us guys agreed that it would make us feel quite manly to later say “The road was rough, but I aired down and handled it easily.” So I decided to go for it.
And it’s true, the moment I aired down I felt fifteen years young and more verile! Or so I told myself.
The “port” is actually a really nice little fishing village with a school, what they claim is a hospital (infrequently staffed clinic), three (actually two) restaurants, a credible tiny market, two churches and, of course, a tortitellería. Very quiet, peaceful, and a fun place to watch the local fisherman launch and recover their boats. There is a sand spit across the small bay popular with the European overland crowd, but I prefered the beach near the village.
Destination Agua Verde.
The road in was rough, washboardy, and annoying. Much like most any other dirt road in Baja.
The beach itself was beautiful and there were only three of us camped there at any one time. I hooked up with Mark and Sueanne from Coeur d’Alene again and got a free dinner out of it!
San Spit Across The Tiny Bay. Almost all Europeans Rigs.
Dinner about 150′ from my van.
One of the fun things at Agua Verde was atching the local fisherman launch their boats almost smack in front of me. They would back the boat on a trailer so that it was at a 45 degree angle to the water. Three or four dudes would unhook the hitch, swing the trailer parallel to the water, then push the trailer backward while heaving up on the hitch, essentially dumping the boat out. They then manhandled the trailer back to the truck and hitched it again. All done with expert precision.
They mostly went out in the morning, but some went out at dusk. Even with moderate temps, it must have been damn cold out on the water all night long. A truck would be there to meet them when they returned, weigh the fish on a communal scale, and haul it to either Loreto or Ciudad Constitución. The restaurant owner told me most her supplies came from the latter, though Loreto is closer.
As everywhere in Mexico, you meet friendly puppers. I’ve commented on this to several people and they say that Mexicans (largely) don’t put up with mean or aggressive dogs. That seems like a pretty large generalization, but you quite rarely see dogs here that aren’t friendly. Most travelers let their dogs run free at campsites.
A really enjoyable place to visit that hadn’t even been on my radar. If I come to Baja next winter, I will definitely return.